Seven Lucky Gods Pilgrimage in Meguro - Buddhism and Shinto in Historic Tokyo

Tokyo is a ton of fun to visit. There's high tech wonders, plenty of shopping, and great dining. It is an old city that rapidly grew in the Edo Period as Edo, the capital city of Japan. The city was razed to the ground by earthquakes and great fires, and was even firebombed in WWII. Every time, the city was rebuilt. This doesn't mean there isn't a lot of history here, but much of it is tucked away in quieter corners, not on the tourist trail. For history and a dash of culture, most visitors see the National Museum with its great artifacts, the Tokyo-Edo museum, Shitamachi Museum, Imperial Palace East Gardens, visit old Yanaka, and experience Sensoji Temple and Meiji Shrine. There are many shrines and temples to visit too such as Kanda Myojin or Kameido Tenjin, and if your timing is right, you can catch a festival or different blooms in season.

Seven Gods of Good Fortune by Katsushika Hokusai. CC0 from The Metropolitan Museum of Art

These are all great places for culture and history, but they can be busy places. How about a mini-pilgrimage in Tokyo that isn't too strenuous, has fewer tourists, and you get to see some remarkable temples and shrines? Back in the Edo period, Tokyo was a bustling city, but there were many areas that were more rural or less densely populated. You could still see hills and look over the landscape from the top of them. Take Atago Shrine with its steep steps and the legend of success if you can ride a horse down them. Atago shrine doesn't see much nowdays as there are so many tall building in the area. 

To get a bit of a feel for an older Edo - pre-Tokyo, try the Seven Lucky Gods Pilgrimage in Meguro. Its more low key, with plenty of houses and urban build-up, but you get a sense of an older city along the route. Back in the day, this would have been a bit of a tourist route too, so you are walking in the footsteps of history!

What are the Seven Lucky Gods? 

These deities are a group celebrated across Japan, with their origins in Buddhism and Taoism, except for Ebisu who is Shinto.

These gods are:

Ebisu: God of prosperity, fishermen, and tradesmen.
Bishamonten: God of war and defender against evil.
Fukurokuju: God of wisdom, luck, and longevity.
Daikokuten: God of agriculture, trade, and wealth.
Hotei: God of children and joy, sometimes associated with merchants and teachers.
Benzaiten: Goddess of the arts, beauty, and water.
Jurōjin: God of longevity and good health.

These gods can be found at other temples and shrines too, but not usually all at one place. For example, Kanda Myōjin Shrine enshrines just two of  the deities: Daikokuten and Ebisu. During the Muromachi period (1336–1573), 

Why Buddhism Embraced the Seven Gods

Before Buddhism arrived in the 6th century CE, Shinto was Japan’s only religion. Over time, Shinto harmonized / syncretized with more prominent Buddhist and Confucian thought, with shrines and temples often sharing space or leadership. The government encouraged this blend to guide society, even creating a department to oversee religious affairs. Shinto lacked complex teachings, so Japanese philosophy leaned on Buddhism and Confucianism. Monk Tenkai promoted the Seven Lucky Gods—a mix of Shinto, Buddhist, and Taoist figures—as a way to unify beliefs and offer a relatable, symbolic path for both commoners and elites

So who are these gods in detail?

Buddhist-Origin Deities

1. Daikokuten (大黒天)

Origin: Derived from Mahākāla, a wrathful protector in Vajrayana Buddhism
Role: Transformed in Japan into a cheerful god of wealth and agriculture
Symbol: Magic mallet, rice bales

2. Benzaiten (弁財天)
Origin: Based on Sarasvati, a Hindu goddess absorbed into Mahayana Buddhism
Role: Goddess of music, beauty, and eloquence
Symbol: Biwa (Japanese lute)

3. Bishamonten (毘沙門天)
Origin: Derived from Vaiśravaṇa, guardian of the north in Buddhist cosmology
Role: God of warriors and protector against evil
Symbol: Pagoda, spear

4. Hotei (布袋)
Origin: Based on a real Chinese Zen monk, later deified in Chan/Zen Buddhism
Role: God of abundance and joy
Symbol: Cloth sack, fan

Taoist-Buddhist Syncretism Deities

5. Fukurokuju (福禄寿)
Origin: Chinese Taoist immortal, later absorbed into Buddhist temples
Role: God of wisdom, longevity, and happiness
Symbol: Long forehead, crane, scroll

6. Jurōjin (寿老人)

Origin: Taoist deity of longevity, often paired with Fukurokuju
Role: God of scholarly wisdom and long life
Symbol: Staff, deer

Shinto-Only Deity

7. Ebisu (恵比須)
Origin: Native Japanese god, possibly linked to Hiruko, son of Izanagi and Izanami
Role: Patron of fishermen and merchants
Symbol: Sea bream, fishing rod

History of Meguro and the 7 Lucky Gods Pilgrimage

The district of Meguro actually gets its name from Meguro Fudoson, which means Black-eyed Fudo. This fudo is a statue of Fudo Myoo (不動明王), the most prominent and important individual within the Myōō category. His name means "The Immovable (Fudo) Wisdom King (Myoo)." Myōō (明王), is a general class of deities that means "Wisdom King". This group includes all the fierce, wrathful, protective emanations of the Buddhas. The statue of Fudo Myoo is at Ryusenji Temple.

An example of a Fudo Myoo.

The tradition of the Seven Lucky Gods pilgrimage became popular among the people of Edo as early as the end of the 18th century during the Edo Period (1603-1868). It was known as the Yamanote Shichifukujin Meguri, and is one of the earliest examples of these pilgrimage routes in the region.

Meguro Shichifukujin Walking Tour Overview

Distance: ~3.5 km loop

Time: 2–3 hours at a relaxed pace

Best Season: January 1–10 (New Year’s pilgrimage), but do it at any time!

Tradition: Collect goshuin (temple seals) for luck in the coming year

You can also collect all 7 cute little daruma dolls, one at each temple, for about 500 yen each and have an excellent souvenir to remind yourself of this journey. Start at Kakurinji and end up at the largest temple complex of Ryusenji. You may notice Shinto influence at some of the temples. For example, there are actual Shinto shrines at Ryusenji and torii gates.
Some walk pics can be found here.

Oldest 7 lucky god course in Tokyo: Yamanote in Meguro - Exploring Old Tokyo

Chasing Fortune in Tokyo: The 7 Lucky Gods Walk in Meguro

https://quiltingsword.com/2010/01/24/the-seven-lucky-gods/

7 Lucky Gods on Treasure Ship (New Years)

1. Kakurinji Temple (Bishamonten)

God: Bishamonten – god of dignity and warfare

Highlight: Peaceful grounds, stone lanterns, and a dignified Bishamonten statue

History: Founded in the Edo period; associated with warrior protection and Buddhist virtue

Kakurinji / CC BY 2.5 Unmodified / 663highland

Festival: No major annual festival, but New Year’s visitors come for Shichifukujin seals here and at other temples.

2. Zuishoji Temple (Hotei)

God: Hotei – god of happiness and abundance

Highlight: Laughing Buddha statue, tranquil Zen garden

History: Established in 1670 as the first Obaku Zen temple in Tokyo

Zuishoji / CC BY-SA 4.0 Unmodified / 江戸村のとくぞう

3. Myoenji Temple (Fukurokuju & Jurōjin)

Gods: Fukurokuju (wisdom, longevity) & Jurōjin (health, scholarly insight)

Highlight: Twin statues, quiet residential setting

History: Edo-period temple with Taoist influence. Original buildings destroyed in 1945.

4. Daienji Temple (All Seven Gods + 500 Arhats)

Gods: All Seven Lucky Gods represented

Highlight: 500 Arhat statues, memorial for victims of the 1772 Great Edo Fire.

History: Founded in 1624; rebuilt after the fire; deeply tied to Edo’s spiritual history

Daienji Arhat / CC BY 2.0 Unmodified / Guilhem Vellut

5. Banryuji Temple (Benzaiten)

God: Benzaiten – goddess of music, beauty, and creativity

Highlight: Small pond, dragon motifs, and biwa-holding statue

History: Known as the “Temple of the Sheltered Dragon”; Edo-period origin

6. Ryūsenji Temple (Ebisu) – Meguro Fudoson

God: Ebisu – god of fishermen and merchants

Highlight: Grand gate, waterfall purification basin, and Ebisu statue

History: Founded in 808; one of Tokyo’s Five Great Fudo Temples

Fudo Connection: Yes – this is Meguro’s Fudo temple out of the 5 Fudo Temples.

Ryusenji / CC BY-SA 3.0 Unmodified / Tak1701d

http://park6.wakwak.com/~megurofudou/top.htm

MAP OF Ryusenji
https://park6-wakwak-com.translate.goog/~megurofudou/keidaiannaipage.htm

Detour: Meguro Otori Shrine

Highlight: Rooster motifs, torii gates, and connection to the Tori-no-Ichi festival

History: Established in 806; linked to prosperity and business success

Festival: Tori-no-Ichi Festival on the Days of the Rooster in November, featuring lucky rakes (kumade) and market stalls

Meguro Fudoson / Ryusenji by Kuniyoshi  The Landmarks of Edo in Color Woodblock Prints, National Diet Library, Japan

More About Ryusenji

Ryusenji Temple, commonly known as Meguro Fudōson (目黒不動尊), is a significant Tendai Buddhist temple founded in 808 AD by the monk Ennin (Jikaku Daishi). It is dedicated to a black-eyed statue of Fudō Myoo (Acala, the Immovable Wisdom King). The district of Meguro (目黒, meaning "black eye") derives its name from this specific black-eyed statue. A work of historical fiction says it is one of five Fudō Myoo statues with different colored eyes placed at strategic points around Edo for protection and you can do a different tour for all five of these temples. This temple was a very popular pilgrimage and sightseeing spot during the Edo period (1603-1868), featured in guidebooks of the time. It was also one of the locations for the "Three Major Lotteries of Edo."

Notable Features on the Grounds:

• Tokko no Taki (Tokko Waterfall): A waterfall used for ritual cold-water ablutions.
• Graves: It is the burial site of the famous romantic couple Hirai Gonpachi and Komurasaki, whose story is featured in Kabuki plays. It also holds the grave of Aoki Konyō, a Confucian scholar who popularized sweet potato cultivation in Japan, leading to an annual sweet potato festival at the temple.
• Aizen Myo-o: A deity believed to bring blessings for love.

Although its main hall and most structures were destroyed in a fire in 1978, the temple has been rebuilt, and its grounds remain a peaceful oasis in the city. The temple continues to hold bustling fair days on the 8th of every month. The temple is located at 3-20-26 Shimomeguro, Meguro-ku, Tokyo. It is accessible via Fudomae Station on the Tokyu Meguro Line or a walk from JR Meguro Station. 

While there is no main Shinto shrine named as such, it is common for large Buddhist temple grounds in Japan to contain smaller structures that enshrine indigenous Japanese deities (kami) or deities that were syncretized into Buddhism. In the case of Ryusenji: It is mentioned that Daikokuten and Ebisujin (two of the Seven Gods of Good Fortune, whose worship often has Shinto roots or is found in both traditions) were enshrined in the precincts, making it a popular destination for the New Year's "Seven Gods of Good Fortune Tour."

• Fukuju Inari Jinja (福壽稲荷神社): Located near the Benten Pond and the area containing the three Gods of Fortune.
• Toyokawa Inari (豊川稲荷): Also located in the Benten Pond area of the temple grounds.
• Sannō Torii (山王鳥居): The stone torii (Shinto gate) is a prominent feature on the path leading up to the main Buddhist hall of Ryusenji.

These are common examples of Shinbutsu Shūgō (the historical fusion of Shinto and Buddhism) where Shinto shrines or related worship areas were incorporated into Buddhist temple precincts, and have been maintained there for centuries.

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