Highlights From My Japan Trip Visiting Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka in December 2022
In early December of 2022 I finally visited Japan again after five years. I had been planning on going back in the year that COVID first hit, but then the borders to Japan pretty much shut down for three years. This visit to Japan was kind of bittersweet in some ways, but I was also very happy to be able to visit and enjoy travelling and the experience of being there again.
Flying to Japan
I flew out of Vancouver, Canada and landed in Narita. One of the best flights to arrive earlier in the day was an ANA flight that arrives earlier than 3 PM, otherwise you are arriving later at 5 PM. You need to clear immigration, pick up your bags, clear customs, then get Narita Express or Skyliner Tickets to get into Tokyo. By the time this is all done it will be after 6 PM. Then the trains will take about an hour for the Narita Express to get into Tokyo Station and a little less for the Skyliner. You will then need to transfer or walk to your hotel to check-in and drop your bags. It will be 7:30 PM before you will be able to see the town. I always like a nice bowl of hot and tasty ramen soup on my first night.
TIP: For Canadians, don't book flights that transfer through the USA as it is a hassle (more immigration / customs / longer layover) even if it is a little cheaper. Make sure your flights are booked for the same airline if possible so you don't have to worry about luggage transfer so watch the flight codes/numbers. They should stay with the originating airline (especially for code shares). I got messed up on that and had to pickup and walk my bags, go through customs, then transfer to domestic, and then go through security again (another lineup and search) in Vancouver on the way back as it was an ANA flight even though it could have been a code share under Air Canada. Haneda is my preferred airport to fly into as you don't have to pay for the expensive transfer to Narita (there are local trains that run there too and I have done that before from the Skytree). I also couldn't find a decent flight for less than $1300 Canadian so I ended up burning points so the flight cost me $0 in the end. Flights are just expensive from Canada now.
The flights to get to Japan were quite uneventful. The only snag was that Air Canada cancelled my flight from Edmonton to Vancouver the night before, inducing some panic, but did automatically book me on the next available flight which still worked out with plenty of time for the transfer in Vancouver to the international flight.
At Narita International Airport I went through a temperature check and immigration without a snag. Their web application for COVID vaccinations (of which I had 3 shots) and customs declarations worked flawlessly in my case making it quite quick and painless.
It took as long to get through a line to get my Japan Rail Pass and pick up my data SIM card at the airport. Funny thing was that I installed the data SIM properly in my Iphone and I didn't think it was working as the cellular bars on my phone were grey and not black. I guess it is grey if there is no voice? Anyhow, I had unlimited data for the next 15 days and it was much better than attempting to use the unreliable and spotty free WIFI otherwise with Google maps, etc.
Overall Impression of the Trip
I have been going to Japan (Tokyo mainly) since 2009. My impressions of the country and experiences have changed over time as I get to know the culture a little better. This trip was fun, but was probably the most stressful of the trips I had. I really enjoyed being in Japan to soak in the atmosphere of modern Tokyo with its efficient subways, modern architecture, food, visiting konbini again, anime culture (including Pokemon), and traditional culture through shrines/history.
On this trip my foot was injured on day 1 and I had some pretty glum thoughts about being able to enjoy the trip with a very painful foot. Fortunately, I carry athletic tape as part of my first-aid kit and I was able to patch it up so that I did enjoy a walking vacation (which all vacations are unless you are spending it at the pool/beach at a resort). I had to go a little easier so I did change my itinerary (goodbye Mt. Takao, and the hilly terrain of Enoshima), but I had a really good time seeing some other things instead. Changing hotels five times was no fun either, but it was a practical necessity.
Japan felt a little different this time. Part of it was maybe because I was wearing a mask most of the time (masking was not mandatory, but recommended, especially indoors). Part of it was the rough start to the trip. Part of it was that my motivations for going to Japan had also changed. I was going there just to experience Japan now and targeted highlights of this trip were the new buildings in Shibuya, Fushimi Inari Shrine in Kyoto, the giant animated Gundam in Yokohama, the whale sharks at Osaka Aquarium, Dotonbori in Osaka, and the castles in Osaka and Himeji. This was a very successful trip with sights seen from the highlights point of view, but I think it was tempered by a more practical view of modern Japan and even the changes in anime culture and industry.
My original desire to visit Japan was because of anime and the amazing things about otaku culture you couldn't find anywhere else in the world on that scale (Akihabara was like Disneyland for Anime). However, anime has changed too in the more than twenty years I have been regularly watching it and I find less really appealing shows for my older self now too. The otaku industry around it and in Akihabara has also changed. I find that the merchandise has increased in price (anime figures cost way more now with cheaper acryllic stand figures making up the difference), the shops carry only what sells best (even the second hand shops), and there are fewer shops (especially after the COVID shutdown). Shows like the first Love Live and Kanda Myojin Shrine and the craze for them are now over. Anime has gone isekai now, and the anime boom of the 2000s is over. There are even maid cafe super chains now and anime goods stores like Animate that have eaten the competition. The world and ourselves change over time as nothing stays the same, so it was sad for me to see these parts evolve on. See this post about what changed here in 2022.
By the way, there's still plenty of anime I like, there's just less of it now. See these articles:
My Favourite Anime of the Last Four Years 2019 - 2022 Part 1
My Favourite Anime of the Last Four Years 2019 - 2022 Part 2
Traveling around to see the various sights, even visiting Akihabara, was still really enjoyable and I had fun seeing the new things in Kyoto, and Osaka too. I seemed to run into Pokemon Centres everywhere and Pokemon references too (also helps if you play Pokemon Go), and I'm happy to see Bandai and the Gundam franchise doing well (The Witch From Mercury is a good example and I couldn't find a model to buy when I was there as it was sold out). It was a trip I had waiting to make for five years and it was worth it!
Anyhow, here are some brief highlights of my trip for the next 15 days. I will add links to new posts as I write up each day with more pictures and commentary.
Day 1
When you arrive at Narita Terminal 1, you are greeted by Mario and Nintendo. Then it is off to immigration, luggage pick up and customs. Once past this, you can take the train into Tokyo. My hotel was just three blocks from Tokyo Station so it was very conveniently located near major train lines. There wasn't much of a highlight on day 1 other than I liked my hotel the REMM Kyobashi, visited a Japanese convenience store again, and that I was finally back in Tokyo! My hurt foot even kept me from exploring Tokyo Station more and I nursed it that night after having a wonderful bowl of ramen at Ramen Street in the station.
Day 2
Took it easier today to avoid stressing the foot. Taping it up with a couple of wraps allowed me to walk around okay while using the heel more. I visited Ikebukuro to look for the Kit Kat Chocolatory and explored Sunshine City Mall. There was a Pokemon Center here, the worlds biggest Gashapon Hall, a Jump Store and a few other shops. Afterwards I took a taxi to Shinjuku to the Godzilla store, and saw the giant 3D Billboard "Cross Shinjuku Vision" there with the CG cat. A Shibuya visit was next along with the new buildings there. That night I head out to see Christmas Illuminations at Tokyo Midtown Hibiya and the Godzilla statues there.
Day 2 in Tokyo - Visiting Ikebukuro, Shinjuku, Shibuya, and Taking a Taxi
Day 2 in Tokyo - Evening with Godzilla and Christmas Lights
Day 3
I revisited Shibuya, going to Miyashita Park first thing in the morning. Afterwards, I explored the New Parco where I browse through the One Piece, Shonen Jump, Capcom, Nintendo, Pokemon Stores, and have a fabulous tempura lunch. Afterwards, I shopped at the Tokyu Hands, Mega Don Quijote, and ascended to the Shibuya Sky Observation Deck with its great views of the crossing and the area.
Day 3 - Back to Shibuya for New Parco, Nintendo Store, Pokemon Center, Miyashita Park
Day 3 - Views From Shibuya Sky, Shopping at Tokyu Hands and Don Quijote
Day 4
I visited Ameyoko Market in the morning and bought candy at the Niki no Kashi Candy Store. I then visited Yamashiroya Toys and had lunch at Ichiran Ramen at Ueno Station. A visit to Asakusa followed to see Sensoji Shrine which was packed with tourists (only one month after Japan reopens)! In the evening I visited Tokyo Midtown to see the Christmas Illuminations and lightshow (sponsored by Netflix), then head to the Pokemon Cafe. The cafe is really a one time experience, and highly geared towards kids in my opinion.
Day 5
I headed to Yokohama and stay in the Minato Mirai area by the bay at the APA Yokohama Bay Tower and have a fabulous view out my window on the 26th floor. I visited the giant moving robotic Gundam at Gundam Factory and geek out for two and a half hours. That night I rode the Yokohama Air Cabin tram over part of the bay and head to the Landmark Tower to see the Harry Potter Christmas trees and the lights in the area. I used the gondola several times and quite enjoyed it for the views and convenience in getting around.
Day 6
This was a more relaxing day spent at the Nissin Cup Noodle museum and a rest and recuperation day. The evening is spent eating and shopping in the malls around the Landmark Tower. This is actually a really nice area to stay in. I also visit the World Porters Mall and the Bandai Namco Cross Store there. That night I visit the Yokohama Cross Night Xmas Illumination at Shinko Chuo Square.
Day 6 - Yokohama , Nissin Cup Noodle Museum, World Porters Mall, Landmark Tower Shopping Area
Day 7
I headed to Kyoto by bullet train and activated my Japan Rail Pass. I easily arrived at the Citadines Kyoto Karasuma-Gojo Hotel which was only a single train station away from Kyoto Station. I headed over to Kiyo Mizu Dera Temple to see fall foliage and found out that there are now huge crowds of people here with tourists both foreign and Japanese on weekend trips. I walk over to Yasaka Shrine afterwards. That evening I see the night illuminations at Kodai-ji Temple. It seems many of the temples have night illuminations to allow a new perspective on their gardens and raise extra money.
Day 7 - Kyoto Part 1, Kiyomizudera and Yasaka Shrine
Day 7 - Kyoto Part 2, Kodaiji Temple Night Illuminations and Yasaka Shrine at Night
Day 8
I headed to Fushimi Inari Shrine and hiked all the way to the top of the mountain finally, despite having a slightly injured foot. I got lost on the way down and saw some cool stuff as I wander down another path that doesn't take me right back to the main shrine complex. Afterwards I headed to Gion and visit Kennin-ji Temple and the famous twin dragon painting on the ceiling there. That night I spent some time at Kyoto Station, enjoyed a tonkatsu dinner there, and shopped at Yodobashi Camera.
Day 8 - Travelogue - Kyoto Part 1 - To Fushimi Inari Shrine and The Mountain Summit
Day 8 - Travelogue - Kyoto Part 2 - Kennin Ji Temple and Evening at Kyoto Station
Day 9
I headed over to the city of Nara to see the deer and one of the largest buddhas in Japan at Todai-ji temple with its massive gates. Then there was a walk to Kasuga Taisha Shrine with its paths lined with stone lanterns. Finally I visited Kofuku-ji Temple and its 5 story pagoda. The museum here has some fabulous sculpture and art (some are national treasures) in a modern setting. There were many impressive pagodas and temple buildings here. Back in Kyoto I had a late lunch of conveyor belt sushi at the station and have an easy evening just relaxing and a nice gyudon dinner at a Yoshinoya near my hotel.
Day 10
Off to Osaka by a regular commuter train rather than a bullet train. It would actually take me just as long by shinkansen as I would have to transfer to the subway afterwards than a local train that takes me very close to my hotel with a simpler transfer! After arriving at the Sotetsu Fresa Inn Osaka Shinsaibashi hotel I headed off to Osaka Castle. This is my first Japanese castle, as the imperial palace in Tokyo has fortress walls, but no castle since it burned down in the 19th century. The Osaka History Museum has spectacular views of the Osaka Castle from up high and the castle is very impressive too, even if it is a modern reconstruction. That night I visit Dotonbori for the street food and lively signage and crowds.
Day 11
I headed out to Himeji Castle by bullet train and had a lovely time there exploring the castle and castle grounds. A UNESCO World Heritage site, this is the most beautiful original castle in Japan. The next door Koko-en gardens were very pretty too. The buses here are hard to figure out for some reason so I just asked the drivers if they are heading to Himeji Station to return. Back in Osaka I visit the Umeda Sky Building for the architecture and panoramic views of the city.
Day 11 - Seeing Himeji Castle, the Most Beautiful One in Japan, and the Umeda Sky Building
Day 12
I visit Namba Yasaka Jinja Shrine with its Lion Stage, then head off to Osaka Aquarium to see the whale sharks. The aquarium here is a worthwhile visit and the giant shark tank is fabulous! I head back to see Tenjinbashisuji shopping area with the Tsutenkaku tower to take some iconic pictures. After this I visit Den Den Town - Osaka's Akihabara and then back to sample Dotonbori again.
Day 12 - Osaka Aquarium (Whale Sharks!), Den Den Town, Shinsekai, and MOS Burger
Day 13
I got an ekiben and took the shinkansen all the way back to Tokyo and stayed again at the REMM Kyobashi Hotel near Tokyo Station. I headed to Akihabara as the shops opened for the day. I visited the Tamashi Nations store, AmiAmi, Gamers, Animate, Kotobukiya, Liberty 7, and Mandarake. I had an unusual conveyor belt sushi experience (no food on the conveyor, and I could have had a lunch without meeting a single staff as everything was automated from sit down to paying for the meal), and visited Shinjuku at night to take pictures.
Day 13 - Travelogue - Back to Tokyo - Akihabara - Shinjuku at Night
Anime Figures From My 2022 Japan TripDemon Slayer: Kimetsu no Yaiba, Jujutsu Kaisen, and Sakuna of Rice and Ruin Second Hand Figures
Day 14
This morning was a Sunday, so was is perfect to wander through the mostly empty underground passages between Tokyo Station and Ginza Station. I've always wanted to walk this and had a great time exploring. In Ginza I did a bit of shopping, had a nice coffee and pastry at Starbucks in the Ginza Six mall. I always end up buying books at the Tsutaya Bookstore here! I shopped at the UNIQLO flagship, visit MUJI, and really enjoyed visiting the Ginza Goldfish Art Aquarium with the colourful and artistic displays. That evening I visit the Tokyo Skytree, the Solamachi Mall, and see more Christmas Illuminations. The Ghibli Store and Pokemon Store here are also fun. There is a really nice supermarket across the street at the east end of the mall called the Life Supermarket (basement level and main floor level).
Day 14 - Underground to Ginza, Shopping, Ginza GoldFish Aquarium, and Tokyo Skytree
Tokyo's Underground Labyrinth 2 - Walking From Tokyo Station to Ginza
Day 15
My flight out was at 5 PM. I spent the morning walking around the east edge of the imperial palace grounds, then through Ueno Park and had a nice lunch at Tokyo Station. Today was a Monday and silly me, I didn't realize that almost all the museums close on Monday here and that even the gardens at the imperial palace follow the same closing rule. Afterwards I arrived at the airport around 2 PM to avoid any trouble with my flight out.
Day 15 - Travelogue - Museums Close Monday - Ueno Park - Narita - Flight Home
Wrap Up
Returning to Canada went without much difficulty. The only issue I had was with my transfer in Vancouver. I thought I was on a regular code share, but I wasn't with Air Canada / ANA. My ANA flights were labelled ANA, not AC. Going to Japan had my luggage go through seamlessly to Tokyo, but on return, I had to pick up my luggage, exit through customs, and go through security again to drop my bag off for a domestic transfer. Passengers that were on a AC to AC flight number had their bags go all the way through to Edmonton. It's something I'll look out for next time. It was a nice big hassle for no real reason other than administrative agreements or contracts. Same people on the same planes, with different flight numbers. Also, the flights out at 5 PM kind of sucked for Narita, as it does chew up an extra afternoon you could have had in Tokyo. The last time I was in Japan I arrived via Haneda, and left on a 6 PM flight. That meant I could hang around in Tokyo until 3 PM, catch a monorail to Haneda (30 minutes), and then check-in much later. Haneda also has more interesting things to see/do at the airport before security than Narita.
It was an enjoyable trip overall, but I was pretty tired when I returned due to all of the travel and schedule.
Japan is an special country with his oriental culture and Eastern traditions. I like so much the Japanese culture. You had a very good travel. The Next Will be better.
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