Day 4 - Travelogue - Nezu Shrine, Ameyoko, Ni No Kashi Candy Store, Yamashiroya Toy Store, and Ichiran Ramen in Ueno

 Back to Day 3 - Back to Shibuya for New Parco, Nintendo Store, Pokemon Center, Miyashita Park

This morning, I was heading out to see the NW part of central Tokyo.  I wrapped my injured foot again, which was holding up well and improving in small increments.  I had a great breakfast in the hotel again (love it when it is included) and then set out to visit Nezu Shrine first thing.  I visit shrines early in the morning as malls and shops don't open until much later.  Museums are a good place to start visiting around 9 to 10 AM too as they also open earlier and are not as crowded either.

Nezu shrine is a little to the NE of Ueno.  There is no nearby rail connection so you need to take a train into the Ueno or another area and then transfer to a local bus.  In all my visits to Tokyo, I almost always only take the train, so this was the first time I would take the local bus.  Google Maps worked pretty good to find the right route and timing.  Just note that you always board from the back of the bus and pay at the front when you get off.  The bus dropped me off a few blocks from the shrine and it was an easy walk in.

Torii at Nezu Shrine

Nezu Shrine is a Shinto shrine famous for its vermilion torii gates and its beautiful Japanese garden, which is particularly popular during the azalea season in late April and early May.  The shrine was founded in the 1st century AD, making it one of the oldest shrines in Tokyo. According to legend, a deity named Susanoo no Mikoto was enshrined here to protect the local people from disease and calamity. Over the centuries it has been moved and rebuilt many times.  There is a long pathway of torii gates on the left side of the shrine. 

The shrine wasn't busy at all when I was there in the morning.  There was one other tourist and that was it!  There was the sound of some grounds keepers using leaf blowers and the cawing of crows, but no voices of people.  I walked around the ground and had a look at the main shrine building.  I could easily imagine that the place would just be gorgeous when the thousands of azalea flowers were blooming.


Honten at Nezu Shrine

It was late fall and there were ginkyo leaves everywhere at Nezu Shrine.

One of many fox guardians at a small Inari Shrine in a corner of the grounds.

A small shopping trip through the market streets of Ameyoko was next after busing back towards Ueno.  Before I went here, I also stopped in at the Matsuzakaya department store.  This chain is one of the oldest department store chains, established in 1611 in Nagoya, but it is now owned by Daimaru.  I was till looking for the bulk packs of Amano freeze-dried miso soup, but only found singles.  I'd return here to their basement food floor if I didn't find the packs elsewhere.  These types of prepared products are typically only found in supermarkets, not small food stores.

Some very nice looking, but somewhat expensive apples.

Delicious looking and expensive strawberries.

The Ameyoko streets were still not very busy, but all of the shops were open by this time.  The area has changed since the first time I visited years ago.  There are now less goods, vegetable, meat, and fish stores and more dining establishments now.  Times change to force out the little retailers who have to compete with the larger supermarkets. 

Ameyoko Street

This morning, I wanted to visit the famous Niki no Kashi candy store located in the heart of Ameyoko.  There are actually two food stores facing each other on the street where it is located.  Look for the sign in the picture below for Ni No Kashi.  Ni No Kashi also has a second floor full of treats, so don't miss it!  The store was everything that I imagined it would be.  Almost any kind of Japanese candy can be found here and you can buy many treats individually and some are in bulk at a more affordable price.  Well worth a visit to be amazed.

Ni No Kashi

Some of the more common candies.

It is aisle after aisle of candy like this!

Right next to these two food stores is Tokudaiji Buddhist Temple. It was established in 1629 and played an important role in the development of Ameyoko as a bustling commercial district. During the Edo period, the temple owned a large amount of land in the area, which it leased to merchants who set up shop along the nearby river. This led to the growth of a vibrant marketplace, which eventually became the Ameyoko we know today.  This is a neat little temple that looks like a Shinto shrine on the exterior.

Tokudaiji Buddhist Temple

Japanese maples in the fall.

A small Shinto Altar.

Some images of the market streets of Ameyoko.

After walking the streets of Ameyoko, I went to visit Yamashiroya, a large toy store across the street from Ueno Station and on the outskirts of Ameyoko.  This store is packed full of merchandise and I just had a browse through the store as I couldn't buy much as I'd end up carrying it all over Japan, something that I didn't want to do.  Don't miss this store if you are in the area and like toys.

Yamashiroya stairwell.

Evangelion is still popular!

Akira on his motorbike.

Dragon Quest metal figures.

After Yamashiroya I was pretty hungry and decided to see if Ichiran Ramen at Ueno Station had a big lineup.  It didn't so I decided to have tasty ramen again for lunch.  Don't miss the Ichiran experience where you enjoy your soup in flavour concentration booths.  It is a unique dining experience and excellent for individual diners.

On the inside of the store, while you wait in line, you use the machine to order your ramen and sides (English menus available), and then a staff member gives you a sheet so you can customize your order.

My tasty bowl of Ichiran ramen, which is a really tasty tonkotsu soup.  I always forget the eggs come boiled and in the shell so you have to shell them!

Flavour concentration booth!  There are tags on the right you can place on the table to get the staff to assist you, otherwise they leave you alone to eat.

Go onto the next half of Day 4 - Sensoji Shrine in Asakusa, Tokyo Midtown Christmas Illuminations, and Pokemon Store and Cafe Nihonbashi

Day 5 - Yokohama, Giant Gundam at Gundam Factory, Landmark Tower Shopping, Harry Potter Christmas Trees 

The Japan Trip 2022 Posts

  1. Planning My Tokyo 2022 Trip Highlights and Attractions (for Anime and Regular Tourists)
  2. Highlights From My December 2022 Trip to Japan (with links to daily pages)
  3. Day 1 - The First Night In Tokyo
  4. Day 2 in Tokyo - Visiting Ikebukuro, Shinjuku, Shibuya, and Taking a Taxi 
  5. Day 2 in Tokyo - Evening with Godzilla and Christmas Lights
  6. Day 3 - Back to Shibuya for New Parco, Nintendo Store, Pokemon Center, Miyashita Park 
  7. Day 3 -  Views From Shibuya Sky, Shopping at Tokyu Hands and Don Quijote
  8. Day 4 - Nezu Shrine, Ameyoko, Ni No Kashi Candy Store, Yamashiroya Toy Store, and Ichiran Ramen in Ueno
  9. Day 4 - Sensoji Shrine in Asakusa, Tokyo Midtown Christmas Illuminations, and Pokemon Store and Cafe Nihonbashi
  10. Day 5 - Yokohama, Giant Gundam at Gundam Factory, Landmark Tower Shopping, Harry Potter Christmas Trees
  11. Day 6 - Yokohama , Nissin Cup Noodle Museum, World Porters Mall, Landmark Tower Shopping Area
  12. Day 7 - Kyoto Part 1, Kiyomizudera and Yasaka Shrine
  13. Day 7 - Kyoto Part 2, Kodaiji Temple Night Illuminations and Yasaka Shrine at Night  
  14. Day 8 - Travelogue - Kyoto Part 1 - To Fushimi Inari Shrine and The Mountain Summit 
  15. Day 8 - Travelogue - Kyoto Part 2 - Kennin Ji Temple and Evening at Kyoto Station
  16. Day 9 - Travelogue - First Visit to Nara for Deer, Pikachu Donut, Daibutsu Temple, Kasuga-Taisha, Kohfukuji Temple 
  17. Day 10 - Osaka - Seeing Osaka Castle, Pokemon Center, and Dotonbori 
  18. Day 11 - Seeing Himeji Castle, the Most Beautiful One in Japan, and the Umeda Sky Building
  19. Day 12 - Osaka Aquarium (Whale Sharks!), Den Den Town, Shinsekai, and MOS Burger
  20. Day 13 - Travelogue - Back to Tokyo - Akihabara - Shinjuku at Night
  21. Day 14 - Underground to Ginza, Shopping, Ginza GoldFish Aquarium, and Tokyo Skytree
  22. Day 14 - Tokyo's Underground Labyrinth 2 - Walking From Tokyo Station to Ginza
  23. Day 15 - Travelogue - Museums Close Monday - Ueno Park - Narita - Flight Home

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