Day 8 - Travelogue - Kyoto Part 1 - To Fushimi Inari Shrine and The Mountain Summit

Back to Day 7 - Kyoto Part 1, Kiyomizudera, Kyoto Station, and Yasaka Shrine

I woke up refreshed for my first full day in Kyoto.  My main goal today was to climb to the top of Mt. Inari at Fushimi Inari Taisha and to get awesome photographs of the tunnels of vermillion torii gates there without a million selfie-stick waving tourists clogging up the shots.  This meant I had to go early and I did!  Fushimi Inari Taisha is a big power spot and the head shrine for all Inari shrines in Japan, which is why it has taisha (grand shrine) rather than jinja (shrine) in its name.  I made sure my foot was properly bound up for the walk and off I went.

Funny coincidence.  When I go hiking in the Canadian Rocky Mountains, I often stop at McDonald's on the way out of the city.  So a tasty and fast McDonald's breakfast at the McDonald's on the street corner by my hotel fits right in to get me to the shrine early!

Getting to the shrine from my hotel was easy.  It was a one stop ride on subway to Kyoto Station where I transferred to the Nara Line which took me to Inari Station.  This train station is right by the front entrance to Fushimi Inari, although there are many ways to enter the grounds.  There is a Daily Yamazaki convenience store right at the front entrance torii of the shrine, before the long, wide path to the first gate.  I picked up a snack here and some drinks before heading up the mountain.  There are places to buy drinks (even vending machines) on the mountain, but you have to pay more as a guy with a pack has to lug them up the mountain and I have seen him!  It always pays to have water and some food along on any long walk.  It will take 1.5 to 2 hours to walk to the top of the mountain depending on your speed and energy.  The last time I was here, I only made it halfway.  My daughter was tired so we turned back.  This time I was going all the way up to the 233 metres (764 ft) peak along about 4+ kilometres (2.5+ miles) of trail with loop around to the top.  The grounds of this shrine are very large and if you zoom in on Google Maps, you can see there are many sub-shrines and even tea houses to visit at the bottom of the mountain.

I previously wrote about this shrine here: Fushimi Inari Shrine Visit - A Shinto Fairy Tale

These sandwiches from can be found at many stores but are definitely at Daily Yamazaki konbini.  I'm highlighting these Yamazaki Sandwich Packs as they are unique.  These are good tasting sandwiches that are shelf-stable for days and are a good bet on a longer travel or just to eat.

Giant torii at the entrance to the walk up to the shrine.

Fushimi Inari Shrine is a Shinto shrine dedicated to Inari, the agricultural / rice kami (god). It has a history dating back to the 8th century when it was founded. Throughout the centuries, the shrine has undergone numerous renovations and expansions, and it has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Japan.

In recent years, the shrine has gained even more attention due to its appearance in the movie "Memoirs of a Geisha" and its use as a location in various anime and manga series. The shrine is also famous for its thousands of vermilion torii gates that line the mountain trails, which attract millions of visitors each year.  There are approximately 10,000 of these torii on the mountain, both tiny decorative ones and large ones you can walk through.  In addition to these torii, you will find hundreds of pairs of guardian fox statues that are messengers for the god.  One will hold a sheaf of rice, cylinder, or a key to the granary in its mouth, while the other has an orb representing Inari.

Walking up the mountain, visitors will pass through several important sights, including the main gate, the Romon gate, which was built in 1589 and serves as the entrance to the shrine's main hall.  Further up the mountain, visitors will come across the famous Senbon Torii, a series of thousands of vermilion torii gates that stretch up the mountain. Each gate was donated by individuals or companies in the hopes of receiving good luck and prosperity. Visitors can walk through the torii gates and explore the various paths that lead to smaller shrines and altars.

One of the most important sights on the walk up the mountain is the Yotsutsuji Intersection (4th intersection), which marks the halfway point of the climb. Here, visitors can take a break and enjoy the stunning views of Kyoto and the surrounding area. There are also several small shrines and rest areas where visitors can offer prayers and purchase souvenirs.

Finally, at the top of the mountain, visitors will reach the peak shrine, where they can offer prayers and take in views of the surrounding area. This shrine is also home to several smaller shrines and altars, as well as a tea house where visitors can relax and enjoy a cup of tea.  The trail to the top is a loop trail which will take you back down the mountain when you reach the start of the loop again.

Main gate behind the second giant torii.

Main gate.  Notice the fox guardians on either side.  One holds a key, while the other holds an orb.

Fox with key to the granary.

Stage.

Main shrine building.  Honden (main hall).

Fox with a sheaf of rice.

Lanterns.

Fox with cylinder.

Fox with orb.

A smaller, elaborate shrine with two white foxes.  As a spiritual creature, these foxes are portrayed as white in colour.

In 2018, the shrine underwent a major renovation project, which saw the restoration of many of its buildings and the installation of new lighting and signage. This project was funded by donations from individuals and businesses, reflecting the importance of the shrine to the local community.

Despite its popularity, Fushimi Inari Shrine remains a deeply spiritual and revered site for the local people, who continue to come to the shrine to pray for prosperity, success, and good fortune. The shrine also plays an important role in local festivals and events, including the annual Setsubun festival in February and the Fushimi Inari Taisha Grand Festival in November.

Map of the way up to the top of Mt. Inari.

Large red torii.

Smaller and densely packed torii.  This section is near the beginning of the trip up and is often full of people taking selfies.

I arrived early to avoid the crowds, but there were still a fair number of people here.

Another section of large torii as you ascend the mountain.

There were warning signs about monkeys.  I've also seen the giant killer hornets buzz by.

More torii.  There are thousands of these gates.  It is a bit surreal walking through all of them.  In a way it is like a series of gates to another world.

One of the many little shrine complexes that dot the side of the mountain.

Places to burn candles and place little gates as offerings.

It was a sunny day and you get this mottling of sun and shade through the leaves.

View from most of the way to the top of Kyoto.

Final ascent to the top.

Yet more stairs!

Small shrines at the top of the mountain.

Another shrine at the top.
 
The main shrine at the top of the mountain.
I did take a rest break before making for the top of the mountain at the fourth intersection.  I had a sandwich and juice here and took a look at my other foot.  I had a hot spot on that I took care of.  I was pretty glad my bum foot was better at this point to be able to do this walk.  Fushimi Inari is a wonderful hike up a mountain.  Unlike wilderness, where it is just nature, it is a combination of nature and a spiritual destination with all of the shrines and gates.  You just have to soak in the environment, relax, and enjoy yourself.  There is always something of interest be it a little shrine, a view, an interesting set of gates, or just the sounds of nature.  I find this shrine and mountain fascinating.  The peak is a little anticlimactic as there isn't some grand building at the top, but it fits into the natural environment better this way.
Along the sides of the main shrine at the top are all these little torii gates left as offerings.

 After spending a bit of time at the top, it was time to come back down.  The loop around the peak was interesting as there were other shrines to see.  At one point there was denser forest and large trees too.  Some of the smaller shrines were covered in moss, even the statues, making them look ancient and more weathered than they should be.  

I got lost this time coming down as I didn't take the left turn on the way down the mountain after completing the loop.  In the picture below, you can see the intersection with the star, marking where you should turn left to return to the main shrine the way you came up.  I went straight as the signage there mislead me.  This actually lead to another path that comes out at the bottom not too far from the main shrine complex at the bottom.  I didn't realize I had taken the wrong path until I realized that there were very few people coming up and I was seeing shrines that I hadn't seen before!  It was a fun detour in the end as I saw a bunch of new stuff.

Some of the other shrines and such on the mountain.
There is always a repair crew out replacing or fixing rotted gates.
Another small shrine in a section of deep forest with little shrines that go back a long way.

Moss covered fox.

Coming down the side path allowed me to see these shrines and temples that are not on the main path up.

I didn't see many cats going up the mountain this time, but I did see three coming down the back side in some smaller shrines.

Lucky frog statues with a special golden frog in the middle.  At one of the many small sub-shrines along the way down.

 Near the bottom of the mountain there were many other little shrines and Buddhist temples.

キ法教総神苑 Buddhist Temple
キ法教総神苑 Buddhist Temple

キ法教総神苑 Buddhist Temple

Another small shrine.
I went up the main path again to do a loop in the dense section of gates at the bottom.
Thousands and thousands of lucky paper cranes off by a little side shrine in the main compound.

Omamori charms for sale.  Depending on the type of fortune you want, the price varies!

Tanuki statues.

Grilled mochi skewers for sale just outside the shrine.

Takoyaki for sale just outside the shrine.

Grilled pork and leeks for sale just outside the shrine.

Interesting story about buying one of these grilled pork skewers.  I was a bit hungry and I decided to have one of these too.  The guy grilling them said it was his first day on the job and wasn't quite sure how to long to cook them.  Me and another guy just had him cook it so it wasn't pink all the way through, just in case!  Taste great and I didn't get sick.

I previously wrote about this shrine here: Fushimi Inari Shrine Visit - A Shinto Fairy Tale

Back to Day 7 - Kyoto Part 1, Kiyomizudera, Kyoto Station, and Yasaka Shrine

To Day 8 - Travelogue - Kyoto Part 2 -  Kennin Ji Temple and Evening at Kyoto Station 

To Day 9 - My First Visit to Nara for Deer, Pikachu Donut, Daibutsu Temple, Kasuga-Taisha, Kohfukuji Temple  

The Japan Trip 2022 Posts

  1. Planning My Tokyo 2022 Trip Highlights and Attractions (for Anime and Regular Tourists)
  2. Highlights From My December 2022 Trip to Japan (with links to daily pages)
  3. Day 1 - The First Night In Tokyo
  4. Day 2 in Tokyo - Visiting Ikebukuro, Shinjuku, Shibuya, and Taking a Taxi 
  5. Day 2 in Tokyo - Evening with Godzilla and Christmas Lights
  6. Day 3 - Back to Shibuya for New Parco, Nintendo Store, Pokemon Center, Miyashita Park 
  7. Day 3 -  Views From Shibuya Sky, Shopping at Tokyu Hands and Don Quijote
  8. Day 4 - Nezu Shrine, Ameyoko, Ni No Kashi Candy Store, Yamashiroya Toy Store, and Ichiran Ramen in Ueno
  9. Day 4 - Sensoji Shrine in Asakusa, Tokyo Midtown Christmas Illuminations, and Pokemon Store and Cafe Nihonbashi
  10. Day 5 - Yokohama, Giant Gundam at Gundam Factory, Landmark Tower Shopping, Harry Potter Christmas Trees
  11. Day 6 - Yokohama , Nissin Cup Noodle Museum, World Porters Mall, Landmark Tower Shopping Area
  12. Day 7 - Kyoto Part 1, Kiyomizudera and Yasaka Shrine
  13. Day 7 - Kyoto Part 2, Kodaiji Temple Night Illuminations and Yasaka Shrine at Night  
  14. Day 8 - Travelogue - Kyoto Part 1 - To Fushimi Inari Shrine and The Mountain Summit 
  15. Day 8 - Travelogue - Kyoto Part 2 - Kennin Ji Temple and Evening at Kyoto Station
  16. Day 9 - Travelogue - First Visit to Nara for Deer, Pikachu Donut, Daibutsu Temple, Kasuga-Taisha, Kohfukuji Temple 
  17. Day 10 - Osaka - Seeing Osaka Castle, Pokemon Center, and DotonboriDay 11 - Seeing Himeji Castle, the Most Beautiful One in Japan, and the Umeda Sky Building
  18. Day 12 - Osaka Aquarium (Whale Sharks!), Den Den Town, Shinsekai, and MOS Burger
  19. Day 13 - Travelogue - Back to Tokyo - Akihabara - Shinjuku at Night
  20. Day 14 - Underground to Ginza, Shopping, Ginza GoldFish Aquarium, and Tokyo Skytree
  21. Day 14 - Tokyo's Underground Labyrinth 2 - Walking From Tokyo Station to Ginza
  22. Day 15 - Travelogue - Museums Close Monday - Ueno Park - Narita - Flight Home

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